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Author Topic: New Windscreen rubber instalation.  (Read 2102 times)
RTTT265
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« Reply #45 on: July 19, 2010, 06:02:06 PM »

Dry shrunk torn filled with mastic,

Im confident now looking at the last photo

keeping the rubber tucked down and cutting around the clips so you dont get 'S' shaped infill strip works fine,

the stainless should clip over, with a straight infill strip should look fine, if it doesnt,

screw you guys I wont post anymore pictures.   LMAO!
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Airstream
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« Reply #46 on: July 19, 2010, 06:19:13 PM »

 Laughing Above But you don't post up the photos. we will not know what not to do so we get our right.  LOL

It just i think i have a nice scond hand rubber for a CL-CM front window.
It maybe one of them rare parts i may be able to sell at palmy swapmeet for a millon bucks  Laughing
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RTTT265
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« Reply #47 on: July 19, 2010, 06:24:34 PM »

Whatever will you take $500,000 for it, and dont tell me its an E49 one, Im not that gullable   help
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« Reply #48 on: July 19, 2010, 06:26:05 PM »

Mate .if you want it come pick it up and you can have it for free.  Grin Yes
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HEMI 265
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« Reply #49 on: July 19, 2010, 10:13:10 PM »

All good info Chris which I'm sure will be of use to many of us  Thumbs Up

1150 views of this thread so Yeap I think there is more than just the few of us that have been posting on this thread that have an interest  Grin Yes
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RTTT265
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« Reply #50 on: July 25, 2010, 06:13:48 PM »

So overall, I call it a big fail on my part,

I tried pretty hard to get the stainless on but the new clips were not proud enough, or rubber to thick I dont know, I got bit  AngrySombitch!  AngryBastard with it, and decided to go without, but with clips already in place and rubber cut around, it leaves me with a pretty average finish.

And I wouldnt expect anything less than to find water leaks by the end of it........................ wait and see I guess
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Munks
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« Reply #51 on: July 29, 2010, 08:54:29 AM »

Finally got those rubbers installed for the trip to the Speedshow last weekend.  Burnout
Below are some pics.

This is the rubbers from HP in Nelson (great people to deal with). They were the same as the rubbers from P&P which I still have and will put up for sale.
The lip is 5mm short ,and as you can see from the pics, in some places the lip sits over the A pillar and in others it is too short.

Corner fit on the back screen is crap. Going back to the installer to get it pooed up this week.
The installer could have done a better job - rubber fit isnt great but if he had spent abit more time on it, it would have been better. I think I will try fit the next one myself.

God only knows why the manufacturer cant produce a profile the same as original. Paying good money for shit that doesnt fit right Farkn annoys me! Mad
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RTTT265
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« Reply #52 on: July 29, 2010, 12:40:11 PM »

Yeah that would piss me off,

I kinda F$%$ mine up all by myself so dont feel quite so bad  Crazy  

I still have the clips in place, and once I have calmed down I could possibly remove the locking strip loosen the clips if I can get to them, and move them higher than the rubber, and try the stainless trim again, although I have damaged one of the trims.

Maybe find some clips spreader pliers to fit the stainless

or remove the locking strip and put in a chrome one  Grin Yes

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RTTT265
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« Reply #53 on: July 29, 2010, 08:23:01 PM »



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vhhardtop
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« Reply #54 on: July 29, 2010, 08:41:58 PM »

Looks like I got lucky with mine then.

I got rubbers for the front and rear screens from Rare Spares about 10 years ago. I thought the fitting cost was pretty high, but seeing the trouble you've had, it seems I got off light.
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RTTT265
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« Reply #55 on: July 29, 2010, 09:04:57 PM »

Without trying to do the clips and stainless mine would of been an easy install, hardest part was welding rust repairs, I think my rubber probably would a fitted nicely too if I hadnt of cut it around the clips
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RTTT265
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« Reply #56 on: August 03, 2010, 09:34:10 AM »

Just read this  Crying

Well after 3 weeks of messing with my windshield on my 70 Duster I can honestly say it was the W/S from He!!!! After searching on this forum, working with a 23 year vetern Windshield installer, and talking with different vendors, I felt I needed to post some straight honest opinions and answers here for future self installers.

First of all, go to NAPA and purchase the $16.00 windshield trim removal tool. While you are there, also get a tube of BUTYL windshield sealant that fits in your caulking gun. Do NOT buy any UREATHANE or let another installer talk you into using it, you will be sorry down the road!

Next purchase a good quality windshield gasket. There are lots of vendors out there and different gaskets. I took a chance and purchased mine from Dante's Mopar parts. This happened to be a PRECISION brand gasket. You will also need to purchase a new locking strip which is separate from the gasket, purchase one of these also. (About $10-$12)

Now Dante also sells the front Windshield clips. In that package there are five clips that are a little taller than the rest. Find those 5 tall ones and purchase 18 more just like them, you won't be sorry. You need 23 of those tall clips.

To remove the old gasket from the windshield, once you have the stainless steel trim removed with you NAPA tool, just cut around the windshield, then remove the old locking strip, you should be able to push from the inside at the top and remove the glass then peel away the old gasket.

If your old gasket is not that old and in good shape, take window cleaner and spray around gasket and glass, remove the locking strip. Have a friend pry back on the top driverside corner gasket with his fingers, while you easily push out on the glass in that same corner from the inside. You can also use a couple of plastic pry sticks to stick in between the glass and gasket as you work your way across the top. Do the same on the other top corner and slowy go down the sides. At this point you should be able to lift the glass out of the windshield channel.

Inspect and clean the channel all around the windshield opening. Paint if necessary. Now install your new clips. Take your tube of BUTYL and place a small 1/4 inch bead along the dash where the gasket lies. A little heavier in the corners and 1/4 inch along the sides and top on the metal windshield frame. Now place your gasket in the cut groove of the windshield frame and lay along the dash groove. Your sealant may ooze out, but not too bad.

Now lay the bottom of the windshield close to the bottom passenger side corner. Take plenty of windex and spray along the gasket and glass. Slide it into the corner and along the bottom. When you get to the other side, use your plastic pry to work the gasket up around the glass. Work up the side toward the top. When you get to the top corner slowly work the gasket and take the palm of your hand and tap the glass into the gasket as you are working the gasket around it. Eventually it will fall in place. Place your locking strip in place starting at the bottom center and working around the windshield. I used a small 1/4" socket on an extension and pushed it in place after first squirting silicone on the strip and into the groove.

Place your top, side and corner pieces of stainless back into the clips and push down. Before snapping the side pieces into place you will need to install the bottom piece into each corner, Now in my case, the gasket also had a piece of rubber that stuck out on the bottom portion of the gasket. I had to take a razor blade and cut this off in order for my bottom piece to fit.

Now how did I learn all this in 3 weeks?? After discovering a 3 year old leak in the bottom corner of the windshield, glass tech first filled the area between the glass and gasket with ureathane. Still leaked. Came back week later and filled area under gasket between body and gasket, (Where the clips are). Still leaked. Spent following week removing stainless which was very hard, removed glass and gasket and spent many hours cleaning up ureathane mess in window channel. Found that gasket had slit in bottom channel where the glass sits that caused the leak.

Next installed new clip set that was sent to me. 18 regular clips, 5 tall ones. (by the way, all my old clips were the same as the tall ones in new package). Next installed gasket without any sealant of any kind since I read this was the way the factory did it. LEAKED! Removed windshield again. Placed 5/16" Butyl tape alond windshield dash only. Installed windshield. LEAKED not at the bottom of the dash but along the sides. Squirted Butyl from the caulking tube along the sides between the glass and frame. Tested. NO LEAK!

But !! The 5/16" Butyl apparently was to thick along the bottom and I could not get the bottom stainless steel trim to push in enough! Also I then found out the clips were not tall enough and upper trim would not catch either.

Removed windshield once again. Replaced all small clips with my older tall ones. Removed butyl tape along dash and squirted about a 1/4" along bottom and sides once again. Replaced windshield, locking strip, and stainless. No water LEAK and everything finally fit!

Hope you have better luck than I did, and hope this bit of information helps you also.

A340
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HEMI 265
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« Reply #57 on: August 03, 2010, 09:43:56 PM »

More good info Chris,  Thumbs Up

Have you got a photo of the NAPA windshield trim removal tool please  Don't Know
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« Reply #58 on: August 03, 2010, 10:25:11 PM »

 That's got to be one of the best written "How to do" articles I have ever read, clear, informative and very easily followed.

 Well done RTTT
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RTTT265
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« Reply #59 on: August 04, 2010, 06:57:48 AM »

Yup too little too late

Always good to do your reasearch after you F$#%$ it up   Thumbs Up





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